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Falls Park on the Reedy
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Aryana Afghan Cuisine
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I keep returning to Greenville, South Carolina. I used to think of it as Charleston’s understudy – but no more. Like the colorful students from the Governor’s School for the Arts and Humanities who add energy to the city, it has written its own script.
The dynamism of the city was shaped by Max Heller, the mayor in the 1970s. His life reads like a Russian novel. As a teen in Austria prior to World War II, his family was saved from the Holocaust by a chance meeting Max had with a young woman traveling from Greenville. Her family ended up sponsoring the Hellers’ immigration, and he repaid that debt by orchestrating the city’s revitalization with a diverse group of business and political leaders. A series of placards along Main Street recount his gratitude to the country that saved his family and the generosity of his legacy: “I was never interested in being the richest man in the cemetery.”
Downtown Greenville is designed for walking. Set against the backdrop of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Main Street is lined with local shops, cafes, art galleries, theaters, comedy clubs and restaurants. Money Magazine called it “Picture Perfect … a landscape that launched a thousand Instagram photos.” Over 200 events are hosted downtown each year, including dozens of performances at the 2,100-seat Peace Center. More than 70 pieces of public art adorn the streets.
Just up Main Street is Falls Park on the Reedy, a 32-acre urban oasis.
The park’s centerpiece is the pedestrian Liberty Bridge that was built – with much controversy – after tearing down a four-lane thoroughfare. Today it overlooks a rushing waterfall. My friend Yvette and I took in the scene from the balcony of the newly built – for $100 million – Grand Bohemian Hotel, whose majestic lobby displays a fabulous collection of Native American jewelry. We sipped cocktails and watched barefoot students fly fishing and bicyclists heading to the Swamp Rabbit Trail, which runs for 21 miles along the Reedy River. On another visit, my sister and I explored that trail with electric bikes from Reedy Rides, which zipped us all the way to Traveler’s Rest and back.
Several dining experiences have shown why the New York Times wrote, “Though small, Greenville may be the next major food destination.” One reason might be Aryana Afghan Cuisine, where Yvette and I were greeted by exotic scents and Nelo, the gorgeous proprietor. Soon our table was full of dishes made from family recipes.
At Fork and Plough, we learned of their pandemic pivot: selling take-and-bake meals. The chicken pot pies proved so successful they still make them by the dozens.
Greenville even has its own food festival, Euphoria, started by another of Greenville’s impresarios, Edwin McCain, who often plays at the riverside amphitheater.
Every September, Euphoria fills restaurants and hosts dramatic meals in unique venues such as the Wyche Pavilion, an upcycled warehouse. A couple we chatted with over hors d’oeuvres there said that they had moved from Charleston and were happy to enjoy a lower cost of living near the mountains.
Not far from Main Street is Heritage Green, Greenville’s art and cultural campus of museums, theaters and the county library. Yvette and I were headed to Chautauqua Greenville, but we stopped first for a stellar exhibit of Andy Warhol lithographs at the History Museum next door to the theater. Chautauqua is an American tradition where actors portray notable historic characters and lead compelling discussions. It’s produced in many places across the country and for 35 years in Greenville. The performance we saw featured festival founder George Frein portraying Mark Twain, who is known as “the greatest humorist the United States has produced.” It was hilarious: “Clothes make the man. Naked people hardly ever have any influence.” And feisty: “Politicians and diapers must be changed often and for the same reason.”
The realization of Greenville’s vision has attracted many fans and accolades. Polls have praised its unrivaled friendliness and proximity to outdoor adventures. LinkedIn voted it the “most optimistic city in the United States.”And Edwin McCain said, “Greenville is everything. It’s why I still live here. I love all of the people. We have a diverse, young city.”
It’s certainly ready for its moment in the spotlight.
